The Southern Drawl and Swagger of L.A. Chefs
by Sean Kenniff
Antoinette BrunoMay 2014
California calls to mind tacos, bibimbop, spa cuisine, and farmers market fresh—and the fusion of all those things. But in Los Angeles, another style of cooking has crept like kudzu into the city’s vast melting pot: the American South, whose rebel call is resonating throughout the City of Angels.
From okra and white gravy to buttermilk biscuits, pimento cheese, and grits, the seductive song of the South has reached L.A. Chefs have been inspired by Southern road trips, food lore, and their own heritage—oh yes, and butter, lard, fried chicken, and corn pone, too! They’re making L.A. a little more Mayberry by bringing in crab boils and barbecued oysters, and transforming their city into a more hospitable, down-home, and delicious place to eat.
NOLA-style Shrimp Boil, Corn, Smoked Sausage, and Potatoes from Chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga of The Hart and the Hunter
Barbecued Octopus, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Watermelon Radish, Grapes, Red Onion, and Herbs from Chef Vartan Abgaryan of Cliff’s Edge
Parker House Roll, Bacon Jam, and Butter from Chef Steven Fretz of The Church Key
Antebellum Grit Cake, Sunny Side Up Duck Egg, Chanterelles, Duck Giblet Gravy, and Wild Arugula from Chef Ted Hopson, formerly of Father’s Office
Sorghum Biscuits with Date Butter and Strawberry Jam from Baker Nicole Rucker of Gjelina Take Away
Pork and Peas Pie from Baker Nicole Rucker of Gjelina Take Away
Coca-Cola Cake from Pastry Chef Sarah Lange of The Hart and the Hunter
Smokey Fried Jidori Chicken, Smoked Milk Gravy, Yam Preserves, and Spicy Pickled Okra
Chef Ernesto Uchimura of Plan Check Kitchen + Bar
Cereal: Amaranth, Fried Egg, Goat Butter, and Chicken Cracklings
Chef Cole Dickinson of Ink
Braised and Fried Rabbit Leg, Carolina Gold Rice, Lemon Pepper, and Sour Cream Gravy from Chef Jonathan Whitener of Animal
Barbecued Gulf Oysters, Chile-Garlic Butter, Parmesan, and Bread Crumbs
Chefs Kris Tominaga and Brian Dunsmoor of The Hart and the Hunter
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